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As much as I love taking my Mini Clubman JCW for a spin through the winding roads of Ceredigion, sometimes it’s nice to let someone else take the wheel. Or, in this case, the whistle! When I heard about the opportunity to ride the Vale of Rheidol Railway, which steams through the Cambrian Mountains, it was an instant “yes.” Even better, the journey began in Aberystwyth, the seaside town where I spent my uni days. It was the perfect excuse to stroll down memory lane, revisit old haunts, and experience the charm of a classic steam train.
Getting to Aberystwyth
Travelling to Aberystwyth from Cardiff is always a bit of a mission. There are two main route options: the scenic route through Brecon and Mid Wales or the M4 via Carmarthen. While the Brecon route has its charms – and I planned to take it on the way back – the early start meant sticking with the M4 for efficiency.
The journey starts straightforwardly enough, heading west on the M4 towards Carmarthen. Once you reach Carmarthen, you’ll leave the motorway behind and start winding your way northward along the A485, a stretch that takes you through several charming Welsh villages and towns. Passing through Rhydargaeau, you’re greeted by a quieter, countryside road that starts to prepare you for the rural landscape ahead.
After the A485, I took a turn onto the B4337 at Cross Inn. This road, while narrow, offers some fantastic views, with a good mix of open fields and wooded areas, and it’s usually quite free of traffic in the early morning. Following the B4337 north eventually brings you out onto the A487 near Llanrhystud, which signals the final stretch to Aberystwyth. The A487 is a scenic coastal route, and though it was still early, the rising sunlight cast a golden glow over the landscape, making the last leg of the journey something special.
One of the things I love about this route is the balance between motorway speed and the slower, more scenic roads. However, it’s not without its challenges. The constant speed limit changes – from 20 to 60, then down to 40, back to 20, and so on – can be a bit of a buzzkill, especially if you’re trying to enjoy the flow of the drive. That said, the beauty of the surroundings more than makes up for the frustrations, with stunning stretches and fog lingering near the bridges, which makes for some incredible photo opportunities if you’re into road-trip photography.
It’s a drive that reminds me why I love taking the car out in Wales, especially on a crisp early morning when you’ve got the roads nearly to yourself. By the time I reached Aberystwyth, I was ready for the steam train adventure but grateful for the chance to see this part of Wales in such a magical light.
A Night in Aberystwyth
Aberystwyth is a place I know like the back of my hand. Its winding streets and familiar landmarks bring back a flood of memories from my university days. It’s a town that feels intimate yet full of character, with everything you need within a short walk. When I’m in Aber, it’s like stepping back into a comfortable rhythm. The town centre is compact, with landmarks like the train station, the popular Wetherspoons pub, and, of course, the seafront all clustered together. And no visit is complete without a stop at Hollywood Pizza for cheesy chips – a nostalgic late-night staple!
For this trip, I wanted to make the stay extra special. Rather than booking one of the usual hotels, I decided to splash out on a luxury apartment on the seafront. Booking last-minute through Booking.com meant availability was limited, and many of the traditional spots were already taken. But I found an apartment that promised sweeping views of the beach, which seemed perfect for a getaway with my wife. I loved the idea of waking up to the sound of waves crashing outside, a far cry from the student digs I remember.
The booking, however, didn’t go entirely as planned. A few hours before check-in, I received a call saying we’d been “upgraded” to a nicer apartment. But when we arrived, it turned out this “upgrade” was off the seafront, with no sea view – a bit of a letdown given my hopes of taking in the sunrise over the ocean. The apartment itself was very nice and even had parking (a rarity in central Aberystwyth), but I felt it wasn’t what we’d signed up for. After a bit of negotiation, they managed to find us a two-bedroom apartment right next to our original booking, directly on the seafront. Crisis averted!
Our apartment was spacious, stylishly decorated, and a true sanctuary for the night. The views of the sea were everything I’d hoped for, especially at sunset. Watching the waves roll in and listening to the ocean’s lull made it feel worlds apart from the busy city. Staying somewhere this comfortable and scenic was a stark contrast to my student accommodations. Back then, I’d have been lucky to get a room with a view of anything other than a brick wall!
In a town like Aberystwyth, you don’t need a long stay to make the most of it. But every now and then, it’s worth treating yourself. Our apartment gave us the chance to unwind, with all of Aber’s charms at our doorstep – from walking along the promenade to grabbing a coffee at one of the many independent cafes dotted around the town centre. Whether you’re taking a stroll along the beach or visiting the castle ruins, Aber has a unique, laid-back vibe that makes it easy to settle back into “student mode” without a care in the world.
If you’re ever planning a stay in Aber, I’d definitely recommend looking into the seafront apartments. There’s nothing quite like waking up to the views of Cardigan Bay. And though it might not be budget-friendly, sometimes it’s worth splurging to turn a nostalgic trip into a genuinely memorable experience. It’s a place that holds onto its charm, blending old memories with new discoveries every time I visit.
Views You Can’t Get from Behind the Wheel
The Vale of Rheidol Railway is a treasure trove of history, charm, and stunning scenery. The journey starts at its own dedicated station in Aberystwyth, just a short walk from the mainline train station, making it easily accessible for visitors. From here, the steam train chugs along a narrow-gauge track, winding through 12 miles of spectacular Welsh landscape before reaching Devil’s Bridge. The one-hour ride each way is an immersive experience that captures a piece of history, running from March through to the end of October, with special festive services in November and December.
One of the things that sets this railway apart is its authentic heritage. The Vale of Rheidol Railway is a registered charity dedicated to preserving the history and magic of steam trains. Their fleet includes fully restored steam locomotives, originally built by the Great Western Railway in the 1920s and 30s. Riding in one of these coal-fired engines feels like stepping back in time, especially with the classic Victorian-style carriages, some of which can be upgraded to first class if you’re looking for a more luxurious experience.
Beyond just the ride itself, the railway offers insights into its storied past. The engine shed museum at Aberystwyth station showcases various historic engines and tells the story of how these trains shaped the region’s development. For train enthusiasts or those with an eye for heritage, the museum is a fascinating addition, offering a closer look at the craftsmanship behind these mechanical marvels.
Once onboard, the rhythmic clatter of the train on the tracks and the scent of coal and steam transport you to an era when this was the height of travel. It’s a chance to slow down and appreciate the countryside in a way that modern life rarely allows. Watching the steam rise and hearing the whistle echoing across the valley is an unforgettable experience, making it easy to imagine what travel would have been like a century ago. It’s as much about the journey as it is about the destination – the train becomes a time machine of sorts, offering a unique glimpse into the past.
Different Views, Different Perspectives
For someone like me, who loves being behind the wheel, a train ride offers a completely different perspective on the Welsh countryside. When I’m driving, especially on scenic roads like those around Ceredigion, my focus is on the road, the car, and the thrill of the bends. But being on the steam train allowed me to relax and take in the panoramic views as the landscape rolled by. The route is carefully designed, winding through open fields, dense woodland, and rugged mountain passes, clinging to the hillside as it gradually climbs up to Devil’s Bridge.
The changing scenery is a visual treat. The train journey takes you through valleys where wide-open fields give way to patches of ancient woodland, and then to the rugged, untamed scenery of the Cambrian Mountains. You pass over old bridges and along hillsides that offer breathtaking views over the valleys below. For once, I wasn’t worried about speed limits or navigating corners – I could just sit back and soak it all in. There’s something refreshing about leaving the driving to someone else and seeing Wales from a slower, more reflective viewpoint.
At Devil’s Bridge, you’re greeted by one of Wales’s natural wonders: the Mynach Falls, cascading dramatically down a series of rocky steps into what’s known as the Devil’s Punchbowl. The sight alone makes the journey worthwhile, especially if you’re up for a bit of a hike to get the best views. Legend has it that the original bridge here was built by the Devil himself as a bargain to trick a local woman – a myth that only adds to the mystical feel of the place. The area is rich with folklore and natural beauty, and the train station provides a great base for exploring the surroundings.
Along the way, keep an eye out for wildlife. On our journey, we were lucky enough to spot a few red kites soaring high above the valley, and flocks of sheep and other farm animals grazing in the fields as we rattled by. The steam engine’s gradual climb into the hills has a charm all of its own, with the sound of the narrow-gauge train working hard on the gradients, puffing and steaming as it goes. The smell of coal, steam, and fresh air is a sensory experience that’s hard to replicate and makes you wonder what life was like when this was the main way to travel.
A Piece of Welsh Heritage Worth Experiencing
This trip on the Vale of Rheidol Railway gave me a renewed appreciation for the heritage of Wales and the beauty of experiencing travel from a slower, simpler perspective. It’s a reminder of how diverse travel can be, even within a single country, and of how many stories and hidden gems are waiting to be discovered in these historic places. So, if you ever have the chance, I’d thoroughly recommend swapping the steering wheel for a seat on a steam train – it’s an experience that will stay with you long after the journey ends.
